LAX-July 29, 2006

Team WOW: Steve Jones(leader), Todd Whear(leader), Lisa Whear, Mac O'Donnell, Liz Wallen, Greg Ocaseck, Jeannie Meronk, Scott Coler, Shannon Coler and David McLean.

Some old and some new friends meet at the airport for a long flight to Africa together. Whether we liked it or not we got to know each other all to well over the next 18 days. The flight was uneventful and, as usual, we were glad to finally get to our destination after over 30 hours of travel.

July 30

Steve and Scott's bags did not arrive. However, Mohammed, our operator, was there with his crew and the Impala Hotel was not too far away. Everyone was tired but we managed a few beers and some tasty treats at the late-night buffet Mohammed had arranged prior to our arrival at the hotel. The adventure had begun.

July 31

Since Steve and Scott's bags had not arrived, they were outfitted with used gear from Mohammed's company. There bags would be delivered on the trail once they arrived. The ride from Moshi to Rongai was a bumpy, dusty culture shock. The lush lower slopes of Kilimanjaro are host to many vibrant villages. I thought it was a blast, however I was filthy when we arrived. The trail head was bustling with porters vying for a load to carry for the next 6 days. This is a highly competitive business as the wages are some of the best around. After signing the book ,the ranger gave us the thumbs up to "hit the trail". We walked gently uphill through the cornfields and into the edge of a lush rain forest. The trail got steeper but the interesting jungle light and colobus monkey sightings made it unnoticeable. We walked out of the lush green and into the heather. It was and oddly beautiful landscape with bushes reaching 10-15' obscuring our views of Kili. Camp 1(8,300') was spread out a bit amongst a maze in the heather but we all managed to make it to the dining tent. It was already cold and everyone was bundled up. Headlamps, breath in the air, popcorn and the obligatory potty talk are what I remember most about that first meal in the tent; and the many to follow.

August 1

It was a perfect blue sky morning and the peaks of Kili were all out for us to see. The rolling top of Kibo was directly in front of us(our destination) and the rugged Mawenzi was off to our left as we made our way up the trail. The heather shortened and thinned out into tiny bushes with powdery white flowers. Scott named them "marshmallow plants". I think it was because he was borrowing clothes from his wife and the panties he was wearing were too tight…cutting off circulation to his brain. Camp 2 & 3(12,800') was amongst a rocky outcropping known as Third Cave. Ironically, there wasn't a cave there. The altitude was getting to some us by the time we walked into camp. The glaciers of the peak that loomed above seemed so close. A rest and dinner was welcomed again tonight, as well as an early bedtime.

August 2

It was another beautiful morning and hopes were high that summit day would be like this. We had an acclimatization day at Camp 2, so after breakfast and the usual morning wash up, we to a short hike. The weather changed quickly and it tried to rain as thick rolls of clouds enveloped us. After a quick break at the high point we cruised back down as it began to rain. It didn't last long and it warmed up again as the clouds receded. It repeated this pattern the rest of the afternoon. Scott and Steve's bags had arrived by porter upon returning from our hike. They were so happy; but the rest of us were happier since they were going to finally change clothes. Lunch included BBQ pork ribs which I thought was outstanding considering our situation and location. The afternoon was dedicated to acclimatizing, reading and writing in journals. Tomorrow would be the beginning of the big assault on Kili.

August 3

We had another clear morning with a sunrise over the Kenyan plains under the pillow of clouds far below. Spirits were high as we prepared for the day. Again, once we began to climb, the weather changed and the clouds rolled over us again. The walk was a long and slow but as we crested the moonscape of the saddle we could see Camp 4(15,500'), Kibo Camp. It looked like a small village crawling with dozens of raggedy porters and REI- clothed oddities. Our camp was conveniently set-up in the middle of the whole circus right next to the long drop toilets. Need I say more? After an early supper and last minute preparations, we all retired to our tents for as much sleep as we could get before the wake up call at 11:00pm. Shannon was not feeling well and Jamaica, the head guide assured it wasn't the altitude and she was in good hands. Sleep was racked with the noises of the camp and the bite of the cold, but Kili didn't care. She was waiting in the darkness with a big grin.

August 4

It was dark, windy and very cold as we ate a midnight breakfast. Eager and nervous, we prepared our water bottles and bladders, checked and changed batteries, zipped every zipper we could find, turned on the headlamps and headed out into the blackness. It was windy, but the stars were out so at least it was clear. Quiet overcame us for most of the night. The sound of our own breathing was all each of us heard for the most part. Many hours into the ascent, Jeannie claimed to hallucinate that the guides offering to "carry" her pack were really "stealing" her pack. She also thought Steve and I were "abandoning" the group when she saw two other climbers descending past our group in the dark. She was happy to descend with a guide when the option was given to her. Not long after Jeannie went down, Liz began to get very cold and called it quits. She also descended into the darkness with a guide. The steady stream of headlamps zig zagging up the countless switchbacks in the dark above was an unusual sight when we looked up the mountain. In a guide book that Mac brought, the author dubbed the switchbacks as "demoralizing". We were all too familiar with the term by now. Everyone was experiencing some sort of AMS symptoms, even if it was just a slight headache. Lisa walked right in front of me. Close enough so that I could put my hands on her hips as we climbed. She thought I was being sweet, supporting her on the narrow trail. In reality, I was trying to stay awake. I would grab her as I felt myself drifting to sleep. Lack of oxygen makes you feel like that, but I knew I had to shake it off and keep focused. Shannon was feeling AMS again and now she was very nauseated. She had to make several off trail excursions. I remember giving her a shoulder rub at around 17,000' feet because she looked so awful. Somehow, she kept climbing and somehow got to sunrise…that's when everyone started to pick up a bit. The ridge was in sight now and at just before 8:00am we reached Gilman's Point at over 18,700'. Lisa and Shannon decided to head down after a brief photo session. The 6 guys were left and, of course, once one of us said we were going to the top we all had to go to the top. It was slow going and surreal traversing the rim, climbing past the melting glaciers that once capped the mountain. At 9:30 we reached the summit sign. Jamaica and Rama were our guides, and I think they even had a headache by now. We all hugged one another, posed for a few pictures and relished in the view. We left the summit just before 10:00am. Several hundred feet from the sign, I collapsed to my knees and began to cry and pray. I thanked God that He gave me the strength to make the climb. Considering just 4 months ago I was in a wheel chair, He was my true guide on that mountain. Then I realized that I was the first to the summit. I smiled, knowing how it happened. Now, He had to help us get back down. A pounding headache was the biggest complaint, so we were moving quick and descending fast. At, one point we bypassed the switchbacks and used the loose shale to our advantage by going straight down. We stumbled into Kibo camp at about 12:30pm. Only 2.5 hours to descend what took us 9.5 hours to go up! We all went directly to our respective tents. I literally passed out, face down, without taking my boots off. We slept for awhile till we were called to lunch. At lunch, we all recounted our individual experiences then packed up camp and began the afternoon trek to Horombo camp. It was another 3-4 hours down the Marangu route. It almost seemed impossible at that point, but somehow we all made it to camp before nightfall. Understandably, some of us didn't make it to the dinner tent that night.

August 5

We all slept like logs! I was a bit stiff, but it didn't matter because I was going to get a shower tonight. We just had to walk off the mountain. The day was actually very pleasant as we descended through several climate zones and dozens of flowering plants and trees. The forest canopy brought drastic contrast to the day as we anticipated the trails end and our pace quickened. At the gate to the park headquarters we received our summit certificates, slammed a cold Coca-Cola in a bottle and boarded the safari vehicles waiting in the parking lot. After a quick stop in Moshi to grab luggage left behind, we were delivered to lobby of the Aishi Protea. This is a small, beautiful, unique resort situated on the slopes of Kili. A perfect sanctuary for weary trekkers in need of a shower and a real bed. We all gathered in the bar for celebratory drinks and stories of how awesome our shower was. Dinner was great; lots of toasts were made; a sense of triumph was in the air. We were all happy to be off the mountain, safe; as well as successful. What a glorious feeling!

August 6

I awoke today even more sore than yesterday. I guess the mountain was catching up with me. I noticed at the bar last night that my second toe on my right foot had a huge blood blister on the tip of it. Luckily, I have so much nerve damage in my feet that I couldn't feel it because it looked like it really hurt! I decided to forgo the day's excursion to Arusha to let my feet rest. Everyone else went in and had a great time shopping. The gals came back with big smiles and plenty of tanzanite. As for me, the afternoon consisted of popping my gigantic blister, a solitary resort lunch and writing in this journal. Laundry was supposed to be finished today, but with the size of the order, we were told we would be getting it on the safari.

August 7

We woke about 4:30am and departed the Protea at about 5:30. Our morning flight from Arusha was cloudy, so visibility wasn't great. However, we did get good looks at Lake Manyara, Ngorongoro Crater and the many Masai villages bordering the vast Serengeti plains. Upon landing on the savanna, we were immediately greeted by our safari drivers, Babu and Michael. It was a photo frenzy from the very beginning. Giraffes, gazelles, antelope, hippos, monkeys, baboons, elephants, leopards, buffalo and warthogs were just a sample of what we saw. By lunch, we had driven to the Serena Lodge. We checked in and enjoyed the awesome buffet for lunch. Most of the group went on an afternoon safari. Lisa and I decided to try out a massage offered in our bungalow overlooking the Serengeti instead. It was worth missing the animals; my muscles were still screaming and they appreciated the attention.

August 8

It was another early morning, but none of us seemed to mind as we anticipated sunrise. The balloon safari was one of the highlights of the whole experience in Africa in 2002, so I knew it would be a big hit again. We all climbed into our individual compartment of the giant basket that was lying on its side in the early dawn light. Moments later we tipped up and floated off over the expansive plains. Our Tanzanian-born pilot told us this was the third largest balloon in the world. With four burners and over twenty people in the basket it is quite an impressive sight. The flight was spectacular; spotting many of Serengeti's finest residents. It took a second try, but we lit in an acacia rimmed opening dotted with small termite mounds. The safari vehicles finally found us and we celebrated the successful flight with a champagne breakfast in the bush. This has become one of my favorite dining experiences ever. It is humbling to eat amongst the predators of the savanna, you don't waste any time. The rest of the morning consisted of champagne induced talk and lots of laughs while we safaried out of the park towards the east. We had an extremely close photo session with one female and two male lions. For lunch, we stopped at the top of a small hill and were allowed to get out and walk around. We were all tired from the early morning champagne at breakfast and a long bumpy ride, so the stop at Olduvai Gorge was brief. The museum is a bit rough, but interesting to see how and where our earliest ancestors had lived. That afternoon we checked into the Serena perched on the south rim of Ngorongoro Crater. The hotel is beautifully designed to disappear into the cliff side and each room has an incredible view of the 2,000' deep crater. Masai dancers entertained us before dinner in the lounge. Their 'jumping' dance was mesmerizing and very impressive. I'm sure a few NBA coaches have passed through Masai country drooling over their remarkable leaping ability.

August 9

The fog was so thick we couldn't see the crater when we woke. But as we drove down into the crater we broke through the bottom of the clouds, into another world. Like the Serengeti, Ngorongoro isn't lacking wildlife. In fact, the crater is more densely packed with wildlife than the Serengeti, which is vastly larger in area. We saw just about every animal we could during the morning drive. We even saw, from a long distance, the elusive and rare Black Rhino, before it laid down in the tall grass. There is said to be less than a dozen of these rhinoceroses left in the crater; another example of the importance and uniqueness of this World Heritage Site. That afternoon we made our way to edge of the Great Rift Valley. The Serena there sits atop the rift looking over Lake Manyara and is as unique and beautifully designed as the last two we visited. We enjoyed cocktails at the pool bar that afternoon. We hadn't had much down time since the safari began so we all enjoyed the chance to relax, swim and rest in our rooms.

August 10

Half of the group wanted to see a Masai village while the other half decided to safari one last time in Lake Manyara National Park. The safari was quick but revealed some good close-ups of elephants and gazelle. The half that went to the Masai village had a wonderful experience and got National Geographic quality shots of this inspiring culture. The drive into Arusha on the newly finished Japanese-built highway was smooth and uneventful. Scott and Shannon departed the adventure after our souvenir shopping spree at the Cultural Center at the edge of the city. The remaining group headed for the airport for the flight to Zanzibar. The streets of Stone Town were still wet from the morning rain showers, but the sun was out when we arrived. The Serena in Stone Town was again, a thoughtful blend of a luxurious setting and beautiful architecture. Mostly Muslim, Zanzibar was a big change from the mostly Christian mainland. It was also nice to transition into island life, slowing the pace for the remainder of the adventure. The sunset over the Indian Ocean was richly warm and the air was silky smooth. The sounds of the hotel musicians was distinctly more Arab or Indian than they were African. A huge difference from the Masai dancers a few nights ago. The lobster dinner impressed all of us. Several of us commented that they were some of the largest we had ever been served!

August 11

We met our guide in the lobby for our Stone Town tour. Sultans, spices and slave trade seemed to dominate much of Stone Towns' history. We explored the narrow maze of streets and passages amongst the dilapidated buildings of the old town. I love imagining what is was like in it's prime when the world looked at this city as the hub of the Eastern trade routes; one of the busiest and wealthiest ports in the world. Visiting the market was my favorite parts of the day. It was fun to discover new fruits and vegetables amongst the maze of stalls, sample spices fresh from the fields and explore the various butcher areas full of pungent odors of slaughtered fish, lamb, beef, chicken and whatever else Zanzibarian pallets prefer. We visited the church built on the site where the slaves used to be sold. Ironically, it wasn't far from the market. We all packed into a tiny, dark dungeon where the slaves were held before sale. I can't tell you what it is like to witness these grotesquely inhumane quarters and realize how many people died in these horrible conditions. After that eerie experience, it was nice to get out in the fresh air again. We had lunch at Mercury's, on the beach. Named after the lead singer of Queen, Freddie Mercury, who was born on Zanzibar. That afternoon we boarded a glorified skiff called the "Luvly Jubbly" for a short ride out to Chapwani Island. The small island was only a mile or so from Stone Town and the small resort there offered seclusion we had not yet experienced. There was a mix up with our reservations, they double booked two of the bungalows the second and third night of our stay. As it happened, we all stayed in a bungalow that night, but the next two nights we needed to find alternate accommodations for a couple of us.

August 12

The skiff came and picked us up fairly early for our ride to town. Mac, Greg, Lisa and I went scuba diving, while Steve and Jeannie went in search of a nice place to stay for the next two nights. We had a great two excellent dives off the outer reefs. The water was pretty clear, about 50' of visibility and we saw tons of fish. We even got to dive a wreck. When we got back to Stone Town, we ran into Steve who had just got down settling in at the Tembo Hotel. We walked back to the hotel and the beach for a quick bite and a few beers. The "Luvly Jubbly" was waiting for us when we decided to head back to the island. Upon our return, we met up with David and Liz, who explored and relaxed on the island all day. Before dark, Steve and Jeannie came over for cocktails and dinner at the island. They departed in the darkness, Stone Town's lights twinkling in the distance. A WOW adventure never lacks!

August 13

Mac and Liz went on a spice tour on the main island. They had a great experience and met some interesting characters along the way. Jeannie went to church; a minority race in a minority Christian congregation. She said it was an eye-opening experience, to say the least. Steve made the crossing once again to spend the day on the island. The rest of us took the time to walk around the whole island at low tide. It's volcanic shoreline of jagged arches and holes hid secret coves tucked into the lush vegetation. The Masai guard at the resort showed us the resident coconut crab, he was bigger than a basketball! There was a graveyard of English sailors on the island; buried there after their ship sank nearby during World War I. We swam and lounged by the salt water pool that afternoon. Lisa and I tried out the resort massage therapist on the porch of our beach bungalow. Fabulous! The sunset was spectacular also! We all snapped photos and frolicked on the beach as the sun dove into the ocean. A fitting end to our African experience, I thought.

August 14

Our bags were piled on the beach as we waited for the "Luvly Jubbly" to arrive. A boat ride, taxi ride and plane ride later we were in Dar-es-Salaam. We were shuttled to the seaside where we spent the rest of the afternoon at a beach resort. A few rooms were arranged for us to relax and clean up in before our flight later that night. We stopped in town on the way to the airport for dinner at local "Indian BBQ" style restaurant. Check-in at the airport was crowded and bustling. Once we got into the terminal, it quieted down. Most of us did last minute souvenir shopping while we waited for our midnight flight.

August 15

The flights were uneventful, but I guess that is good when it comes to flying. We had a 5 hour lay over in Amsterdam. David, Steve, Jeannie, Lisa and I decided to go sample Dutch hospitality rather than wait at the airport. We had a blast, taking a whirl wind tour of the coffee houses and the red light district, before zipping back to the airport. Needless to say, the quick detour was a welcome change to the monotony of traveling. When we arrived at our destination, Los Angeles, later that day, I couldn't help but reflect on our adventure. I was a bit sad it was all over and we had to go back to work. Then I smiled, realizing that this is not my destination and the journey is not over; rather the journey is the destination. And the journey is far from over.