Day 1: Departure from LAX - October 16, 2002

Everything went as planned, thank god. We got out of LA without incident and we all made the plane transfer in Minneapolis. Lynn and Angelique met us in Amsterdam and finally we were all present and accounted for, our ducks were in order! It was somewhere over the Sahara Desert that it sunk in… we were "living another dream." All those years of planning were done, now all we had to do was sit back and enjoy the ride. However, we had one more burning question to be answered upon arrival…was our outfitter really going to be there?

Day 2: Arrival in Tanzania - October 17, 2002

To our relief, Mohammed and his crew were there in full force. It was probably around 10:00pm when we arrived at Impala Hotel in Moshi. Over a few beers and appetizers on the verandah in the hotel courtyard I noticed that for the first time, after nearly two days of travel, our group had a chance to talk, eat and drink together. Everyone seemed to be in great spirits given the fact that we were all exhausted. There was Eileen Stephens, the "Mama" of the group. Greg Weiler (a.k.a. Kaka which means brother in Swahili) and Lynn Dulin (a.k.a. Dada which means "sister" in Swahili) were, of course, siblings. Craig and Angelique Atkins were also siblings while Craig's girlfriend, Jamie Craig made them the only couple on the adventure. There were four past WOW adventurers (so I guess they don't learn from past mistakesJ), Mac O'Donnell, Keith Francis, Greg Ocasek and Gary Sheerin. There was also Gary's friend, John Lapham and Mac's brother-in law, Doug Reeves. The official translator was Michele "Lala Salama" Bird; Sweet Dreams in Swahili. We were finally in Africa and we were all feeding off one another's excitement. Let the adventure begin.

Mt. Kilimanjaro Summit Trek - Lemosho Route

Day 3: Londorossi Gate - 5,400' to Mti Mkubwa - 9,200' We all fumbled with filling our water bottles and bladders while the outfitting team from Moshi Expeditions and Mountaineering loaded our bags onto the roofs of three safari vehicles. We divided 5 per vehicle and began the caravan to the trailhead at Londorossi Park Gate where we needed to obtain our mountain permits. Here we all had our first chance to interact with the locals. As usual, it was awkward at first. Something like being the center attraction at a freak show. But, as usual, it was the children that offered the best icebreaker. The rare white-tailed colobus monkeys were abundant in the trees behind the village. I think they came out to see the show as well. From the gate we drove another 30 minutes to the trailhead of the lesser-known Chamber's Route (7,600'). The last couple hundred yards was like something out of Indiana Jones as the 4x4s bounced from side to side in knee-deep mud puddles. As we fishtailed around the last corner we came into a clearing with dozens of men standing around waiting for us. 47, to be exact, and each had a specific job. During lunch, the porters were packing and one by one disappeared up the steep jungle path with our bags, their bags, gear, food and supplies. The flora and fauna are supposed to be richer here than on the more popular routes. Unfortunately, we did not see much except for the odd bird. We reached our camp in the rainforest at Mti Mkubwa (Big Tree) after about 3 hours. Our guide, Jamaica, set the pace, which seemed to be agonizingly slow for most. However, we would all soon realize the importance of pacing during a multi-day high-altitude trek. Dinner was served outside on a long table. It was nearly dark so our headlamps came in handy as our uniformed chef, Bacardi, was serving us… complete with white chef hat. Some were already in bed as a vigorous game of Zilch played out by lantern-light. None of us lasted long, we all knew we had a big day ahead of us tomorrow.

Day 4: Mti Mkubwa to Shira Camp One - 11,500'

The morning trek through the rest of the rainforest and up a giant moorland zone was quiet and peaceful as mist clouds rolled in and out. The "wooden flowers" of the Proteas Kilimanjaricus were fascinating. That morning we had divided into a slow and a fast group, however these labels were not suitable for some in the group. Each group was renamed; the slow becoming the "Journey" group and the fast becoming the "Destination" group. Originating from the WOW motto, "It's the Journey not the Destination that counts", These labels seemed much more fitting. Our lunch stop was at Gane & Marshall One, a small valley on the edge of the Shira Crater at about 10,000'. After lunch, we climbed a long barren ridge speckled with large multi-colored caterpillar. As we traversed onto the high altitude desert plateau known as Shira Caldera, it was becoming apparent how large this mountain really is. Shira is the third of Kilimanjaro's volcanic cones, which was filled in with lava flow from Kibo Peak long ago. It will take us another day just to cross this plateau. Just before dinner we got our first impressive views of Kibo -Kilimanjaro's glaciated summit. The chill kept the Zilch game in check and we were all in bed by 9pm.

Day 5: Shira Camp One to Shira Camp Two - 12,700'

From Shira Camp One on the western edge of the plateau we continued southeast across the plateau to the Shira Cathedral on the southern edge of the plateau. It is hard to believe that before the fire of 1997, nearly a million hoofed animals grazed on this high altitude grassland. There was a split in the trail and the porters went straight to the next camp. We were to take the fork to the south, which headed toward Shira Cathedral. Unfortunately, Craig and Jamie went straight. The cathedral was a small but impressive peak only about 15 minutes from our lunch stop at the pass. The views from Shira Cathedral were nothing less than spectacular even though mist clouds hampered us periodically. We passed Craig and Jamie about 30 minutes outside of camp as they were making their way to the cathedral. I'm glad they had time to hike back and check it out. At camp, the usual tent shuffle and after trail wash-up took up the rest of the daylight left. Meanwhile, our first medical situations were unfolding. Keith was sick with the flu-like symptoms, which had started a day or two early according to him. Jamie was suspected to be reacting to the high-altitude medicine, Diamox, and was showing signs of toxicity. Keith added a corticosteriod to the Tylenol with codeine he was already taking and he was feeling better by morning. Jamie was advised to minimize her dosage, which she did, and gradually her energy came back and other side effects subsided. Everyone else seemed to be in good shape. We ate as best we could in the bonechilling wind and quickly resigned to the tents for the evening after dinner.

Day 6: Shira Camp Two to Barranco Camp-13,000'

At Shira Camp Two we divided into two groups in the morning. The Destination group was to gain about 300' more via Lava Tower. I was with the Journey group today, Jamaica setting the pace. The morning was cool as the clouds and fog rolled in and it began to mist just after lunch. I thought at the time how beautiful and clear it was that morning waking up above the clouds. The peak appeared zoomed in compared to Shira Camp One the day before. Just as I wondered if we were going to get to see the peak again today it bypassed drizzle and went straight to rain. The rain finally let up a couple hours later as we began our descent into what Jamaica described as, "Barranco's Garden". Our camp was on a terraced plateau in a steep valley underneath a 1000' cliff, which formed the far side of the valley and inevitably the barrier we had to cross the next morning. The Great Barranco Wall towered above the barren environment, which was supporting groves of the strangest looking trees. They can best be described as straight out of a Dr. Seuss book. Here was also a giant species of lobelia, both prehistoric-looking and definitely out of this world. At Barranco Camp there were a few with mild AMS symptoms, most were wet and exhausted from an afternoon of walking in the rain. Amazingly, all of us are still healthy and geared for the next day, which was actually the beginning of our summit attempt. There was talk of intestinal abnormalities, but that was about the only health complaint. Overall, we were holding up well as we ate in the shadows of the hanging glaciers near the summit over 6,000' above our heads. The glaciers illuminated and the dark valley turned light when the full moon rose over the wall. It was a beautiful evening in a magical place.

Day 7: Barranco Camp to Barafu Camp- (15,100')

Today involved a lot more than we had anticipated. Crossing the Great Barranco Wall was just the beginning of many ridge crossings that day. It was icy and cool in the shade as we picked or way up the cliff. There was one point we all had to go belly to rock as we straddled the non-existent trail. Then it donned on me that the porters were doing this balancing our 50-pound duffels on their heads. It didn't seem so difficult anymore. As we broke the ridge and rounded out onto some flat rock, the peak seemed close enough to touch. Not a moment later it was gone as a cloud enveloped us. We descended into another valley and up another ridge. We had lunch in the warm and glorious sun for 5 minutes before the wind forced us to stuff our faces and hit the trail. The afternoon was a long series of couloir and valley traverses. The sound of the volcanic shale crushing beneath our feet was just like breaking glass. We finally reached Barafu, which means "ice" in Swahili, around 4:00pm. Of course, it was the only day that we beat the porters, which sucked because it was very windy and we all needed as much rest as possible before midnight. By the time camp was set up it was getting dark, beginning to snow and the Destination group was still not in camp. At 6:30pm I went back down the mountain to help Lynn, Greg, Eileen and Bingo into camp. They were exhausted and grumpy and went straight to their tents. The scene was somewhat chaotic as we should have all been in bed and sleeping by then. Eileen was so exhausted she decided against a summit attempt that night. Dinner was just being served and I was trying to arrange for all the water bottles and bladders to be filled. We had instructed that dinner was to be served in the tents tonight, as the weather outside was blizzard-like. It wasn't until 8:30 when I called off the "water boy" act and decided the last few bags could be collected at midnight. It was gusting 40-50 mph and snowing pretty heavily.

Day 8: Bingo's Barafu Blizzard Birthday- 15,100'

"It wasn't supposed to begin like this" I remember thinking as I dressed around 11:30pm. Moments later I was out in the blizzard looking for Jamaica's tent. I woke him up and I wondered how he could sleep so well with gale force winds whipping the tent? Initially he said we should all get ready…then he stepped outside the tent and quickly reconsidered. I was disappointed but relieved that he "said" what I was "thinking"; and that was, "this is not the type of weather we should attempt a summit." Most were already awake and calling out for the plan. One by one I visited each of the ten tents and broke the bad news. I could sense a similar reaction to the news upon first assimilating the message; a mixture of disappointment and relief. Craig and Jamie's tent was ripped open and they were being invaded by blown snow. We couldn't fix the zippers so we managed to do a midnight shuffle of bags and mats to more suitable accommodations. Craig and Jamie went to our tent, we went to the porter's tent and the porter's got the tattered tent we were abandoning. The porter's definitely got the raw end of the deal, however once we were inside the wet, kerosene-soaked porter special, I reconsidered who may have gotten the worst deal. It was about this time when I realized it was Bingo's birthday. Since we weren't going to the top, I figured it was time present Bingo with the handmade flag I was going to plant on the summit later that morning. It read, "Bingo's Big Five - 0 on Kilimanjaro" and after a shot of tequila, it was official. Bingo was old and it was all downhill from here. At least, the next day anyway. The wind let up a little as the sun rose. I peeked out once around 3:00am and the wind was still pushing the snow horizontally. This was the latest departure time for the summit bid and the wind was still howling. I don't know if any of the others can understand how difficult but necessary that decision was given the conditions. I know it pissed off some, we were all disappointed but no one thanked us for saving their life. The irony is that we will never know; and that was what was eating at all of us as we packed up, turned downhill and began walking. The plan was to descend over 9,000' straight down the mountain. After hearing the 3 day forecast from Mohammed, by cell phone, from our tent earlier that morning; we decided it was important that our clients got a hot shower that night rather than another wash basin. Another night on the mountain would have been miserable given the group morale. We definitely needed a pick-me-up, so Mohammed was instructed to find the best accommodations possible and we would spend the extra day in Moshi! It was late afternoon before we reached the Mweka Gate. We had come down through 3 ecosystems on Mweka Trail, which was closed for repairs. The rangers made an exception due to the conditions on the mountain and the size of our group. During a cold Coke, I had 2 inches of mud excavated from my boots by some local boys charging 1000 shillings. We made a quick stop in town to pick up our non-mountain bags at MEM's office. After beating off a few hagglers and dealing with downtown culture shock, we were once again on the road. The Protea Aishi is set in the middle of a tranquil plantation of banana and coffee. It had a comfortable, open-air feeling and the fireplace in the main dining hall was a nice compliment with the jungle noises outside. As we ate dinner at the fancy long table, I admired our group. We had come a long way today and they looked and smelled much better! Even though we had a setback, I couldn't wait for the adventure to continue.

Day 9: Moshi

We had until 12:00pm before we were shuttled into Moshi. The breakfast buffet on the patio allowed us to see fish eagles, blue monkeys and baboons while we ate. After a relaxing morning and a cutthroat game of Three Flies Up in the pool, we all shuttled into town in a small bus. On the way to town we drove off road around the bus stop. I gave thanks as we observed several buses of the same size as ours trying to load the last few passengers. There was no more room inside. As a matter of fact, the only room left was on the roof or back bumper… and there were only a few spots at that. In all, there must have been about 40-60 people per bus. And as we puttered happily by with our 15 passengers, I wondered if any of us could fathom their situation. Town was as most; busy and tiring. If it weren't for the constant parade of hagglers it might be pleasant. Otherwise, the day was a plethora of local culture. We started with a "long" lunch at a local eatery. The "federation" meal was definitely the ticket. 700 shillings…or about 75 cents for a stainless platter with about 6 or 7 different local specialties ranging from green banana in a coconut curry to meat stews. It was probably one of the cheapest and largest meals I've ever enjoyed while travelling. Unfortunately, Angelique was never served and they finally gave her a shish kebab…to go. We found out later that it was a Muslim establishment; spaghetti straps and bare shoulders offended someone enough to discriminate. To add insult to injury, we paid for 3 kebabs. The arts and crafts warehouse was a shopping success. The owner even gave each of us a leather Kilimanjaro-shaped key chain with, "JUST DONE IT" stamped in the foothills. Ha Ha, very funny. After dodging more street hagglers we ended up on a small patio of a downtown hotel. We promptly ordered a selection of local beverages of the "hoppy" variety; Tusker, Kilimanjaro and Safari. Our guides were there, Jamaica and Eugene, the cook, Bacardi and the Boss, Mohammed. As we relaxed on the patio, Mohammed mentioned that a few of our clients were interested in making the climb again after the safari while the rest of the group goes on to Zanzibar. He assured us they had time and they would be at the airport in Dar with time to spare. We agreed to the proposal even though we had not been informed of their decision as of yet. However, we made it clear that we were not to be involved with the details. They were on their own if they left the group and planned itinerary. We had a specific job to do and we could not sacrifice the rest of the group for the sake of a few. That afternoon we were invited to Mohammed's home for tea. I guess that is what they call a feast in Tanzania because there was more food than we could have ever eaten in one sitting! Tandoori chicken and plate after plate of deep-fried stuffed pockets. Tamarind, mint and chili sauces for dipping and even a chocolate cake to go with the rich local coffee and spiced tea. It was a truly impressive display as we all sat on the floor and stuffed our faces. We got to watch a bit of CNN and found out that the Angels had not yet won the World Series and that the east coast snipers still had not been caught. A theater in Moscow had been held hostage but not yet gassed. We watched only 15 minutes of news and our day seemed insignificant on a worldly scale. However, it was very significant in all our minds and I'm sure it was an experience none will soon forget.

Day 10: Moshi to Ngorongoro Crater

We made a pit stop in downtown Arusha at an American fast-food wannabe called Mc Moody's. Mistake #1. The drivers ordered 15 burgers and fries to go. Mistake #2. A half-hour later we ate the meals in front of the Cultural Village shop on the way to Ngorongoro. Mistake #3. The caravan through the dusty savanna was exactly how our driver, Babu, described it, "a rough massage". The Japanese were helping to pave the road all the way to Ngorongoro's Park Gate. However, it will be two years before the 40-50 mile stretch is complete and it is currently a series of rutted detours paralleling and frequently crisscrossing the new "smooth" graded road. Each time we crossed over to the other side we could get a good look at the wide, straight smooth beginnings of an African freeway. It was very tempting not to peel off between the makeshift rock barrier and go for it… darn near torture. By the time we reached the lodge a bumpy 4 or 5 hours later, Greg W. was really sick. John and a few others had complained of minor intestinal irregularities for a few days now. But, that night over half of us dropped like flies. We all blamed it on the McMoody's meal and we'll never know, but 8 of us spent a lot of time in our bathrooms that night. Coincidentally, or not, none of the girls got sick!

Day 11: Ngorongoro Crater to Serengeti

The Serena Lodge is perched on the crater's southern rim. The view from the dining room's giant panes of glass was like looking at a huge postcard. After accessing damage during breakfast, it was concluded that everyone was feeling well enough to spend the morning in the crater. The drive down gave us our first opportunity to see Africa, as we knew it. There was a small herd of giraffe carelessly strolling through the tall, dry grass and a group of young Masai warriors on the side of the road. According to Masai culture, they were, supposedly, freshly circumcised. They are then to paint their faces, as warriors do, and go kill a lion in order to satisfy their new manhood requirements. Due to conservation efforts, it is illegal for them to kill lions anymore. So, instead, they spend their "hunting" time waiting for sucker tourists to come along and pay 1000-2000 shillings for a photo of them. Ironically, conservation combined with tourism has provided them and us with a way to exploit their sacred rite of passage. The crater can be best described as a full-on-zoo in a natural refuge 15 miles around. The crater walls are steep, distinct and uniform, which allow only sturdy migrating animals access. Most of the animal species found here live their full life cycles within this incredibly unique ecosystem. There is an alkaline lake, which support 2 species of flamingo, various cranes, pelicans and other water birds. There are several freshwater ponds and swamps where the hippos are so prolific they looked like a mass of boulders in the water rather than an island of backs. We saw large herds of zebra and wildebeest. Thompson's and Grant's were the most common gazelles. Hartebeest, waterbuck, secretary birds, bull elephant, spotted hyenas, Cape buffalo, African-crowned crane, spoonbill, ostrich and a serval cat were among just some of the other sitings. The lions we found were surprisingly uninterested with our presence considering we were so close. Babu had a knack for nearly running over an animal so we could get close enough for a good picture. The first lion we saw decided he might as well use the shade of our vehicle since we drove up so close to him. He got up, sauntered over a few feet and plopped down right next to us. I was glad he was hot and tired as I had heard that the curious ones have been known to climb up onto the vehicles and lay on hoods! We ate our packed lunch at the lodge before leaving the crater en route to the Serengeti. Several hours later, we stopped at the Serengeti National Park border. It was barren, flat, dry and there was not a tree in sight. You would think that we were in the middle of nowhere and there couldn't possibly be any animals out here? During the next several hours we saw more gazelles, warthogs, mongoose, baboons, ostrich and hyenas than I could begin to count. The amount of life out there was absolutely amazing. Upon arriving in the Seronera (the heart of the Serengeti) we were tipped by a passing driver that a leopard was spotted just down the road. The sunset silhouette of the leopard dangling in an acacia tree with its kill hanging just a few branches away was a fitting way to end the day. All day I felt like I was not watching the Discovery channel, but I was in it! Even the roar of the lions seemed surreal as we were enjoying the sunset from the hilltop Serena lodge.

Day 12: Serengeti National Park

The 4:15 wake up call for the sunrise balloon safari seemed a bit extreme, but when we got to the launch site and watched the giant balloon inflate… well, so did our excitement. Getting into the basket was reminiscent of a Space Shuttle launch. For starters, the basket was large enough to hold 16 people in two rows of two-person compartments. The basket was lying on its side so there was a top row and a bottom row of compartments with small bench at the bottom. We had to crawl, feet first into each compartment and lie on our back and wait till the balloon filled enough to pull the basket upright. The wind was picking up and blowing south as we left the ground. Everyone hooped and hollered as we rose and quickly blew away. I think I can safely say that this was definitely a highlight and worth the early wake-up call. We sped over the plains at 20-30mph but it felt like we were just slowly drifting in the wind. We flew for about 45 minutes, watching small herds of gazelle and zebra scatter as the burners ruined their peaceful morning graze. The pilot was American and celebrating his 30th year flight that morning. Nearly grazing the top of a flat-top acacia tree, the pilot commented, "Now you know why they are flat on top." The landing was reminiscent of a plow being drug through a field. Sounds horrible, but assuming the seated position on the bench and hanging on tight, it was actually quite fun. The champagne was appropriate and aptly portrayed our elation being back on the ground about 20 miles from where we began. We drove back to the launch site in safari vehicles to where they had breakfast waiting. Under the only tree around for miles, they had set an elegant long table complete with silverware. It felt like something out of a movie; at a washing table set up to the side, an uniformed Swami poured warm water over our hands as we washed them. We sat down and more Swamis proceeded to converge on us offering beverages and serving breakfast. When they weren't serving, they surrounded the table standing a few feet behind us, cross-armed, as if they were going to protect us from a lion attack. The rest of the morning involved digesting and driving around the Seronera. It was amazing to observe such diversity living together along the oasis-like waterway. At one point, I was video taping a lion under a tree at the bottom of the frame, a crocodile in the river in the middle of the frame and an elephant strolling on the other side of the river at the top of the frame. I had to remind myself that these were wild animals and this was not a zoo. By noon, most of us were ready to relax. Meals at the lodges were buffet and there was plenty of food to choose from. As people usually do, we complained of eating too much. But that didn't stop us from piling high, trying "just a little" and going back for seconds! Some of us decided to stay by the pool that afternoon instead of going back out on safari. Needless to say, the rest of the afternoon was lazy and uneventful. A welcomed change from the daily routine of being on the go.

Day 13: Serengeti to Lake Manyara

Ever since we came down off the mountain, John, Gary and Doug had been making arrangements with Mohammed to attempt Kili again while the rest of us continued onto Zanzibar. Today, the three of them were to meet a driver at the Lake Manyara Serena when we arrived that afternoon and continue onto Moshi where they would stay overnight and begin the trek the next morning. We took all morning to slowly cruise out of the Seronera. The sitings were similar to the previous day's…Elephant, hippo, giraffe, antelope, warthog, baboon & mongoose. It was on the main road that we drove up on a pair of lions lying on the hump just off the side of the road. At first I thought they might ask us for 1000 shillings since they looked as if they were waiting for us to come along, like the Masai warrior boys. They soon got up and sauntered down the road together. We followed behind them as they crossed back and forth over the road a few times. They eventually made their way to the shade of the only tree around for miles, stretched and lied down. By lunchtime we were at Olduvai Gorge. This area is probably one of the most famous archeological sites of the 20th century. After a brief talk by a local staffperson, we browsed the museum and gift shop. The last hour or so to the lodge was fast and furious as we bounced down bumpy red roads and through villages using the horn to alert the school to get out of the way. We weren't even checked in when Doug, Gary and John met their driver to take them to Moshi. We said quick good-byes and wished them a successful summit. I know we all secretly wished we were going also, however none of us were willing to give up the idea of a few days relaxing on a tropical island in the Indian Ocean. A local dancing group performed during cocktails at the poolside bar overlooking the park and expansive Lake Manyara. We enjoyed another awesome meal in the dining room, resigning to the lounge where some of us stayed up for a few heated rounds of a 'celebrity name game'. After a while, they (the barstaff) kicked us out and we all went home.

Day 14: Lake Manyara to Arusha

After breakfast in the lodge, we drove down to the park entrance. I finally got my chance to prove myself as a real African safari guide. Babu promised me in Moshi that I could drive once we got out of town… now was my opportunity to shine. As we waited for our permits at the park gate, I eagerly adjusted the seat, practiced shifting with my left hand and tested a few buttons. Unfortunately, one of the buttons I hit was the horn and by the looks of the armed guard standing by the gate; I think it would be fair to say I almost lost my driving privileges before I began. It is a big no-no to sound a horn in a national park, so when I did it again about 10 minutes later as we were observing a group of giraffes, I think everyone in the vehicle knew I'd never make it as a real safari guide. At least I didn't hit any animals! By the lake, we sat for a while amongst the dead trees where thousands of large birds were roosting, flocking and swimming. It was a surreal sight to see hundreds of pelicans, cranes, storks and flamingos all competing for a place to land. We came across a few large troops of baboon strolling through the jungle, but no siting of the famous "tree climbing lions" that Lake Manyara is noted for. We drove back up the escarpment to the lodge and enjoyed the lunch buffet before packing the vehicles for the dive back to Arusha. On the way to Arusha, we stopped for about 1 hour in Mto Wa Mbu (Mosquito River). We all loaded up on local handicrafts and textiles here because the town seemed to offer the best souvenir bargains we had come across. As we drove into Arusha, it was getting dark and began to rain. Mohammed was at the hotel waiting with our "extra luggage". We went over details for Zanzibar/Pemba and talked about the safari. Greg Weiler and Lynn Dulin were departing from the adventure and heading back to the states. After they got cleaned up and repacked, we all said our good-byes and they were whisked off to the airport for a late night flight home. I asked Mohammed about Tanzanite, the local gem that has become famous worldwide for it's brilliant lavender color. Because it is mined only in Tanzania, and that mine is fairly close to Arusha, then that makes Arusha; the primary trading center for this gem. Mohammed's cousin happened to be a jeweler in town and with one quick phone call he was on his way to the hotel with the local goods. Our hotel room was temporarily transformed into a jewelry shop while we were shown stones. It didn't take long for me to pick two, just over a carat each, that I knew they would make a great set of earrings. I knew my wife would be happy with my decision…and she was!

Day 15: Arusha to Zanzibar/Pemba

We barely made our flight the next morning because they decided to take off about 15 minutes before scheduled departure. It was a quick flight and before we knew it we were standing on the tarmac in a moist 80-degree heat. Our local guide operator met us outside the terminal, drove us to their office to drop off extra bags, then headed into Stone Town for our day tour. We began with an unsuccessful search for an ATM that would take our cards. We finally found a place were we could get cash by taking a draw on our credit cards. Our first stop on the tour was the local market. Divided into separate areas, we walked through the maze, mostly awestruck. The fish market was first, and without refrigeration it was definitely the quickest part of the tour. The vegetable and fruits were next. Having many exotic fruits and vegetables in this part of the world made window shopping a real education. A lot of us bought spices and teas since the archipelago is so famous for this type of trade. The meat market was probably the most shocking part of the day, especially when we were taken out back where the chickens were slaughtered. WOW! After the market, we meandered through the narrow streets of the old town as we made our way to the "whipping tree". There is a church now where this tree used to grow; a fitting memorial to the thousands of slaves that were bound to the tree; whipped, beaten and auctioned to the highest bidder. We all crowded into the women's side of a dungeon-like cell where the slaves were held till the auction each Sunday. There were only 11 of us and there was no more room. As we sat in the humid, dark heat, I could tell that most of us were uncomfortable and claustrophobic. That's when I asked how many women they would keep in this cell at one time. I was horrified to find out that as many as 30 or more women would have been crammed in, chained together and neglected till the next auction. We were glad to get out of the "chamber of horrors" and into the sanctuary of the church across the yard. After a brief talk, we were driven to the water's edge where we ate lunch overlooking the beach at Mercury's. A little known fact about Zanzibar is that it was also the birthplace of Freddie Mercury, lead singer for the 70,s supergroup, Queen. After lunch the tour continued through the streets of Stone Town. We strolled past many of the famous "elephant" doors that still exist today. The use of these doors came from India where charging elephants apparently were a problem. The large spikes adorning the outside of the door were enough to discourage the animal and eventually became a traditional architectural style. This style was brought to Zanzibar, even though there aren't any elephants on the island. We visited the old fort and ended at the House of Wonders, at the time it was a rich sultan's achievement of the largest, most impressive home in Stone Town and the first building in the world to utilize an elevator. The flight from Zanzibar to Pemba was uneventful and some of us even dozed off. The azure waters below looked promising for the diving that claimed to be some of the best in the Indian Ocean. Upon arrival at the tiny airport on Pemba, I was delighted to see the only clock in the terminal was unplugged and hanging upside down. I knew we were in for true "island time". We were shuttled from the airport to a dilapidated loading dock just outside of town where we waited for our shuttle boat to the resort. The sun was setting while we were skimming across the lagoon in the resort's dive boat. As we rounded a point, the resort came into view. All that was visible was a 200-yard dock jutting out into the lagoon. There was a thatched-roof; open-air bar about 1/3 the way up the dock and a series of thatched structures in the jungle on the hillside above the beach. Each bungalow was actually a huge canvas tent, which was permanently mounted to a wooden platform. Each tent was enclosed underneath a thatched-roof for extra protection and had a woodcrafted bathroom in the back of the tent. There were cold drinks in the fridge, a very inviting front deck with a couple of lounge chairs and a view that was out of this world. I could tell that just a few days here would not be enough.

Day 16: Pemba

Mac, Craig, Jamie, Michele and I went out for an early morning water-ski around the lagoon. We all had a blast laughing at each other wipeout and trying to dodge the abundant jellyfish floating all over. Before Jamie and I got our chance to ski, we ran out of time…we had to get back to the resort to pick up the divers. Mesali Island was the destination this morning. After outfitting at the dive shop, we all boarded the boat for the 15-minute ride out to the perimeter reef. We stopped briefly to drop off the shore divers, Eileen and her private snorkel guide on the picture perfect beach. The rest of us continued out to the dive site called Coral Garden, where we were briefed as we geared up. The water was right around 80 degrees. The visibility was around 80-100 feet. Neil, the divemaster, was my dive buddy. There was also a couple in my dive group from Argentina, Frank & Juliette, who were making their first open water dive after being certified the day before. They couldn't have picked better setting to get certified in and this dive as one of their firsts. As we swam up and over the coral head protecting the lagoon we came into the 20-30' of an ecosystem which supported a vast amount of marine life. We drifted along and observed large schools of yellow snapper and goatfish, lots of angelfish and butterflyfish and many different colored puffers, giant clams and oysters. There were plenty of anemones complete with it's own clownfish or two. This particular reef system has been somewhat spared from the effects of El Nino. Due to it's depth, it has not been bleached as bad as other reefs around the world and still supports some of the best coral in the Indian Ocean. At one point, I was completely surrounded in thousands of schooling silver guppies. It was actually disorienting as their darting around blinded my sense of direction. The moray eel lurking under a coral ledge was an adrenaline rush. The fan coral was effortlessly swaying in the current as we floated along the wall. The deep blue below and behind us kept us all head jerking for a glimpse of a whale shark. Above water, we all shared stories of our sightings and encounters…which were nothing less than spectacular! We stopped on Mesali Island for a cold Coke in the shade, picked up the beach crew and motored back to the resort for lunch. Since it was Halloween, Bingo and I dedicated the rest of the afternoon to getting our costumes together. While the rest of the group enjoyed an afternoon scuba, we visited the staff shop in the "backscene" area of the resort. They really didn't have much but Bingo managed to find a sarong for his costume. I was in search of coconuts and not about to climb a tree to get them. Luckily, just down the beach about 200 yards was a small shack with three Pembians lounging around underneath. They had a variety of local crafts, textiles and spices. There were half shells of coconuts filled with spices! I struck a deal, but not before I added a wood carved mask to the sale. Happy with our purchases, we spent the rest of the afternoon putting our costumes together, drinking beer and playing chess. Not a bad afternoon, by any standards. The madness began as we assembled for cocktail hour. Eileen was a gypsy; quite exotic and convincing for someone who has never worn a Halloween costume. Craig and Jamie made a cute giraffe and lion couple. Angelique was a sexy witch. Mac was a classic Hugh Hefner, robe and all. Michelle was space girl, partially wrapped in a space blanket. Keith was scary version of Carmen Miranda, complete with a pineapple bonnet. Greg was "Rafiki" which means friend in Swahili. And Bingo also kept it local with his "Suliman" costume, in honor of several gracious and happy resort employees of the same name. The disfigured, crazy-man with ponytails mask that I bought at Rite-Aid before we left was perfect as I accessorized with a coconut bra and a sarong. I made a second set of coconuts, which I strapped onto my knees as a joke on Bingo. During the Kili trek, Bingo had a wacky, high altitude dream. As usual, it involved a half-naked woman and this time it was Demi Moore. Apparently she was well proportioned, like in reality, but her knees each had a bosom! He told me not to tell anyone else, they might think he's nuts. I took that as an invitation and by the end of breakfast every one was calling out to Bingo and squeezing their knees. My costume was just the icing on the cake. Since none of the locals have ever heard of Halloween, we were probably quite a sight. I still smile at the thought of those poor cleaning gals that I scared. They are probably still talking about that crazy American with the mask who chased them down the path that night. They might have screamed, but I only heard joy in their shrieks.

Day 17: Pemba

Another day in paradise and another spectacular wall dive. This time we dove a site called Mapinduri. The whole group descended quickly and together we slowly drifted along the wall at about 90'. It was cool to see all the bright colored fish and coral go by, but on this dive I was enjoying watching the group. We were all in close proximity and it was priceless to see the expressions on everyone's face when we saw the huge grouper checking us out. Or the school of impressive sized barracuda we saw at end of the dive. In all it was a fantastic experience, not just the underwater beauty but the bond which was created between each other being out of our element and in another world. I was beginning to get used to that "cold-Coke-on-the-beach-after-an-awesome- dive-in-the-tropics" routine. Too bad we had to leave the next day. Again, the afternoon spawned a few games of chess and the consumption of several "Suliman specials". This tequila cocktail could only be prepared here because it requires the local ginger beer to make it right. At sunset, we hopped on a dhow and sailed out into the lagoon. Some of the staff and divemasters were aboard with an array of drums. I had my harmonicas, so we began alternating between drum jams and harp solos. Just as the sun was setting, the drumming frenzy we were all dancing to overtook me and I leaped, head first into the lagoon. Underwater, it was quiet again; I surfaced, floating on my back and smiled as I watched the back of the dhow getting smaller and smaller. They hadn't turned around yet, but I wasn't worried. It was so peaceful, the water was warm and my buzz was perfect. I could have swum back to the pier but Bingo persuaded the crew to go back for me. On board again, the group was ready for some more fun. One of the crewmembers pulled himself, arm over arm up the mast rope. Michelle, also, successfully demonstrated her abilities. While Greg, on the other hand, didn't fair so well. He was hanging only a few feet off the deck when he let himself drop. Unfortunately, the board he landed on was loose and pivoted up as his foot and ankle rolled over. In an instant, everyone fell silent and I heard Mac say, "That doesn't look good." Greg's ankle was dislocated and his foot was rolled inward and his anklebone seemed to be protruding downwards. One of the divemasters quickly pulled the foot down and it popped back into place. Within seconds, we had Greg's foot in the cooler that was keeping our beverages cold. Within seconds, our laughs stopped and the fun was over. Back at the resort, Greg was made comfortable and iced while being offered numerous painkillers. We have ventured into potentially dangerous situations throughout this adventure and ironically it was a freak accident, which laid claim to our only injury. This was also the case in Nepal a few years back. We were all eating lunch at an open-air restaurant in Kathmandu when the hand of someone in our group was punctured by the spike of an umbrella, blown over by a gust of wind. Go figure! Dinner was served on the beach in honor of our last night at Fundu Lagoon. It was a buffet of local dishes and again the meal was outstanding, as it had been since we arrived. Dining with the sand between my toes made it a true Pemba-experience.

Day 18: Pemba to Dar-es-Salaam

We got one last chance to for island time as we made a morning trip out to Mesali Island again. This time I took the opportunity to explore the island. It wasn't large. The loop trail system only took about 45 minutes to walk. Eileen, Michele, Angelique and Bingo decided to pass up the snorkeling for the trek. During the first part we trekked through the sparse forest dotted with mangroves along the water's edge. We came out on the other side of the island onto a beautiful deserted beach. Turtles nest here in the mating season and I could see why they like it so much. Towards the end of he beach, offshore about 200', was a mushroom shaped limestone island about 20' high. We all posed for a self-timed portrait and were off again into the jungle. On the way back we visited two huge sinkhole caves, both were filled with water. The ancient people inhabiting these lagoons used the second one for offerings and sacrifices. Back on the other side of the island, we all took a quick snorkel before the boat departed back to the resort. We enjoyed one last lunch in the awesome open-air dining room overlooking the beach then packed, took care of our bills and boarded the boat for our shuttle back to the dock. Trying to dock our boat was similar to a three-ring circus. The shallow water concrete pier already had two large dhows anchored alongside it. The ropes were stretched from bow and stern out into the lagoon so it was like a maze trying to get past them and find a small spot close to shore to unload. The ride to the airport was nice because of the air conditioning, but the wait at the airport lacked this amenity so it seemed like a longer process. The flight to Dar-es-Salaam was a short and sweet 30 minutes. On the ground we were met again by the MEM crew and quickly shuttled to a local hotel were Mohammed had arranged a couple of rooms and stashed our bags till we went to the airport later that evening. Gary, John and Doug were already in the "boys" room washing off their mountain dirt. We were all delighted to hear accounts of their summit of Kilimanjaro. Even more impressive was their 120mph ride in Mohammed's Mercedes from Moshi to Dar. The drive normally takes about 5 1/2 hours. They did it in 3. I think it was a little too much for the boys, they seemed very thankful to be standing there. The group went to a local market area for last minute souvenir shopping which turned out to be a flop. I guess it was more junk than anything you'd want to bring home to loved ones. Bingo and I stayed behind to discuss business details with Mohammed. As it got dark, we drove into the Mwenga district for a BBQ dinner. Mohammed, his wife and crew love this place so we all left it up to them to offer their suggestions. It was deliciously spicy and we had a lot of fun. The quick stop at a Disney-themed ice cream parlor was an appropriate prelude to our return to Southern California, just hours away. At the airport, we said our good-byes to the MEM crew and made our agonizing way through customs. Our plane departed just after midnight. Day 19: - Flight back to The States - November 3, 2002 During the layover in Amsterdam, I took Greg to the airport infirmary. KLM offers free medical services to their customers, so we took advantage of the service. The cute Dutch nurse gave Greg a better wrap for his ankle and gave him the same advice we already knew…"Get to a doctor and get it x-rayed as soon as you get home." As it turned out, Greg did have a fracture and has required months of rehab. The photo I snapped as his foot was put in the cooler full of ice was not well received at the time. However, it came out perfect and I can't wait to show him at the appropriate moment. The second half of the air journey was, as most international flights are; too long, boring, tedious and uncomfortable. However, the prospect of getting home seemed to outweigh the pain and suffering of air travel. I couldn't wait to see my family. I know we all had other priorities once we touched down in LA. Once we finally found our bags, we cleared customs together and said quick good-byes amongst the hustle and bustle of the arrivals and departures. And then it was over, in that instant, we were done. Home safely with my family around me, it donned on me that the dream was no longer a dream. It became reality; memories and an experience that will be with us as long as we live.